Playing dress-up in Kyoto

When: Sunday June 16, 2008

Where: Near Kyomizudera temple, Kyoto

Info: The first time I came to Kyoto with Becky and Elspeth, way back during Obon 2006, we had our photos taken as maiko. We had a good time but only got two photos (and they weren't great photos either). I had been thinking of a way to mark the end of my time in Japan and thought that having my maiko photos re-done would be nice. I found this cool looking studio and convinced Elspeth to join me. 

We booked an early appointment, which helped us avoid the crowds and the heat. The studio was located on a tiny traditional looking street but inside it was new and stylish. We were ushered into a change room with a long row of sinks and lockers where we changed into our under kimono things and socks. Next, we headed upstairs to have our make-up done. My hair was pulled securely back (aka almost pulled from the roots) and tied with a headband. Next, the make-up artist smoothed cream on my face, which instantly sealed all of my pores and then proceeded to paint on the snow white make-up. 

Eyebrows, lips and eyeshadow completed our maiko look and we were sent to another room to choose our kimonos. I knew I wanted to wear a dark kimono (last time I was in a bright purple one...just not me) so I was pretty quick in picking. Elspeth went for a pretty blue one which made her crazy blue eyes pop! We were wrapped and tied into those kimonos! Padding and strips of stuff, wrapped in fabric were pushed and pulled into place. The large obi (sash) was secured. Taking a deep breath was no longer an option.

Wigs came next and mine was surprisingly comfortable. It was amazing to see how well it blended with my forehead. The lady dressing me then took a good look at my choice of kimono and obi and pulled some small boxes from a shelf. Inside were fabulous hair ornaments (a silver fan and a bunch of flowers with tiny lanterns and bells!) which she stuck into my wig! 

The transformation was complete! It was so weird to see myself in the mirror! I hardly recognized myself! The package we had chosen included the opportunity to walk around outside with a professional photographer who would take shots of us at various places. We were escorted to the door and helped into the highest wooden platform geta! I somehow got down the stairs without falling and figured out how to take tiny baby steps on the cobblestone-like street.

We hobbled down the street a bit and then our photographer pointed to a spot and showed us how to hold our kimonos (we had to hold them up or they'd drag on the ground). I tried to be all demure and naive looking and smiling with teeth was not allowed (the white make-up made our teeth look hideously yellow!). It felt weird to have my picture taken professionally.

We wandered down the small streets and at one point walked onto a street full of tourists. They all turned to look at us and then started taking photos. It was hilarious! Just picture all of these Japanese tourists taking pictures of two foreign girls dressed as maiko. It was a completely bizarre and fabulous situation. I wonder how many photos there are of Elspeth and I dressed as maiko floating around out there?!

Our photographer took a bunch of photos of us (later we got them on a dvd) and then helped us tie up our kimono so that our hands were free. Then she returned to the studio and we had 30 minutes to roam around Kyoto! We wandered down side streets, posed in doorways and with more tourists, took Aaron shots and then made our way back towards the studio.

I had such a great time doing this! It was totally cheesy and touristy but SO MUCH FUN! Girls, if you're ever in Kyoto and want to splurge - do this! It's so special and you'll have amazing photos to show off to everyone. My students couldn't believe it was me (again!). 

The make-up had been quick to go on but man, it took forever to get off. I scrubbed and scrubbed with approximately 4 different cleansers and about half a bottle of baby oil. It was messy but when we saw our pictures, we knew it had been worth it. We changed back into our normal clothes (which were super boring after wearing a kimono) and went to find somewhere to eat lunch.

We found a tofu restaurant located above a tiny pottery shop and it turned out to be a relaxing and elegant place. The food was absolutely fabulous. One of the best meals I ate in Japan! And everything had tofu in it....OK well, maybe not the tempura or the rice. The highlight of the meal was having tofu made on a burner right in front of me!

See the nabe-ish pot? That contains a liquid the consistency of milk, which eventually turned into the creamiest, most heavenly tofu.

Chewy tofu with different flavours of miso 

Tofu 'skin' served like sashimi, with wasabi and soy sauce

Tempura with matcha green tea salt

The silkiest tofu. ever. 

After lunch we went back along the path we'd gone as maiko, did a bit of shopping and then decided that we were tired and hot. It was time to head home. I mean, we'd had a long day and dressing up in kimono and wigs really tired us out. We hopped on the shinkansen and zoomed back home to Nagoya.

I couldn't have asked for a better weekend. It was a perfect way to celebrate my time in Japan and now I have these amazing memories and photos. I love Kyoto. It is truly one of my favourite places in the world. I can't wait to go back already!