The huge KYOTO update - Day One

I apologize for the delay in posting about the rest of my Obon trip to Osaka & Kyoto. I have been really busy (I took a short trip this weekend to Ise) and I'm tired. The sun and heat are draining the energy out of me faster than usual. So, here we go...

So back to Kyoto. We took the local train from Osaka and while Becky and Elspeth text-messaged people I watched the Japanese countryside zoom by. Elspeth figured out how to turn off the beeping keypad on Becky's phone and everyone on the train was then happy!! (heehee, just teasing Becky). We made our way to Kyoto Station (I LOVE this station but more on it later) and to the 100yen store to pick up some soap and towels for our Maiko experience (When Becky's co-worker made the reservation we were advised to bring some to get the make-up off). Get this - I remembered where the 100yen store was from SEVEN YEARS AGO!! I seriously have a problem when it comes to bargain shopping (thank you mom!). It was really hot and humid and we had no idea where the maiko place was so we caught a cab and Elspeth had a crazy conversation with the cab driver (he thought it was hilarious that three foreigners were going to dress up like geisha). He dropped us off in the neighbourhood and we went into a BEAUTIFUL fan shop to ask for further directions. Seriously people, I could have lived in this store for the rest of my life and been happy. It was gorgeous!


We had some time before our reservation so we wandered the streets and I took pictures of beautiful sliding doors, secert corridors that led to gardens and interesting signs. We got some lunch at the local grocery store (500 yen sushi that was to die for) and then headed back to the maiko studio. We were invited in and the girl explained the various packages you could purchase. We decided on the cheapest one (ahem, the only one under 100 dollars) and then decided to get two photos each, one individually and one as a group. (Oh by the way, Maiko are apprentice geisha and wear more elaborate and decorated kimono and hair accessories. Geishas dress more simply). We were led upstairs where our make-up was done (snow white grease make-up that made my pores scream). We picked out kimonos and were then strapped into multiple layers of fabric. When I saw myself for the first time with the make-up, kimono and wig it was amazing! I felt like someone else completely and I felt really Japanese. It was weird and fabulous and terrifying all rolled into one. I kept trying to find me under all of that make-up. Laura where are you?


We were twisted and pulled and posed with fans and parasols and I tried to remember to look demure and innocent. We were allowed to take digital pictures with our cameras. For some reason my camera was being difficult but Elspeth and Becky did manage to take a couple good ones. After having our pictures taken we fooled around, taking pictures, pretending to do the tea ceremony, etc and then decided that it was time to wash off our maiko makeup. Here are links to our professionally taken photographs;
The Three Maiko
Maiko Laura

It was quite the experience and I'm so happy that we did it. I would never have had the courage to do it by myself. It was cool because the studio was tucked away in a back street of Kyoto, the employees took the experience very seriously and talked about respecting the image of the maiko and we were the only foreigners there. It was a very special experience for me.



After we were ourselves again we left and found a nearby shrine with a zen rock garden. I was taking a picture of it when a monk came up to me, pointed at me and then at the door. He did not look happy. Perhaps he had seen us enter the security gate that was locked? A woman passingby had told us the combination...Or maybe the temple was closing to visitors....we weren't quite sure...


We found out hotel, met the fabulous guy who runs it and sat in the air-conditioned wonderfulness of our room. We found a family run izakaya for dinner. We ordered small dishes of everything from tekka-maki to tempura to green salad and fried sweet potatoes. One of the tempura appeared to be a scallop of some kind and when Becky bit into it she decided it wasn't for her. I decided to give it a try and popped half of it into my mouth. MISTAKE. It was the most disgusting thing I have ever eaten. I still have no idea was it was but it tasted like old fish, had the consistency of a slimy scallop and just wouldn't go down my throat. There was no way I was going to throw up in a wonderful Japanese bar run by the nicest family, so I gagged it down and then washed my mouth out with lime/vodka drink and some salad mayonaise. GROSS!!

We returned to the hotel, tried to avoid talking to the annoying Canadian guy (from Toronto of course and wore a fanny pack!)(Steph - what's with me and travelling and finding all of the annoying Canadians?) and then called it a night.